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  • : Le blog de les5duvin.over-blog.com
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POURQUOI CE BLOG?

Ce blog est né de l'heureux hasard d'une rencontre, en 2010, au Salon des Vins de Loire d'Angers, autour d'un verre de rosé de Bourgueil - celui de Pierre Jacques Druet. Il y avait là cinq "plumitifs" du vin. Le rosé aidant, l'idée a germé de créer un espace commun.
Parce qu'à cinq, on peut aborder plus de thèmes.
Parce qu'on peut débattre.
Parce qu'on peut partager. Des coups de coeur, des coups de gueule, de l'expérience.
Et qu'est-ce que le vin sinon une boisson de partage?
De ces cinq, certains sont déjà des blogueurs confirmés, d'autres non.
Comme il y a les 5 sens, il y  a maintenant les 5 du Vin.

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QUI SOMMES-NOUS?

David Cobbold (Eccevino) est le plus français des journalistes anglais du vin, ou vice versa. Il a reçu en 2011 le Wine Blog Trophy pour  son blog, More than Just Wine.

Jim Budd, sujet de sa Gracieuse Majesté, est journaliste pour diverses revues britanniques. Amoureux des vins de Loire, il leur consacre un blog, Jim's Loire, primé en 2009 du Wine Blog Trophy.

Hervé Lalau est un journaliste français écrivant pour diverses revues et sites français, belges, suisses et canadiens. Son blog "Chroniques Vineuses" lui a valu le Wine Blog Trophy en 2010.

Michel Smith, PourLeVin, est un journaliste français établi en Roussillon, travaillant pour diverses revues et guides en France. Il s'intitule lui-même "Journaliste en Vins et autres Plats de Résistance".

Marc Vanhellemont est un journaliste belge travaillant pour divers magazines en Belgique et en France. Incontournable, sauf par la face nord.

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20 avril 2010 2 20 /04 /avril /2010 07:24

Real Wine?

There is nothing like making a bold statement:

Les Caves de Pyrène invites you to

“Real Wine”
A tasting of primarily biodynamic & organic wines’

RealWines.jpg

A statement

 

So what exactly is real wine? Closely allied, I think, to the notion of ‘natural wines’ – another concept that also begs questions. When followed to the letter the “Hands off – I leave the wine to make itself” approach leads to vinegar and probably poor quality vinegar at that.

Of course if there is ‘real wine’ there must presumably be ‘unreal’ or ‘imaginary’ wine. I guess imaginary wine means conjuring up mythical bottles you can’t afford. “I suppose we had better open another bottle of ’47 Cheval Blanc with the cheese.” “Oh no! Not the 82 Petrus again...”  

Today was Les Caves ‘meet the growers’ tasting. However it actually turned out to be meet a few of the growers as a different type of reality intervened: out of the 60 growers due to be present, 35 were KO’ed by volcanic ash.

Despite their strident trumpeting of ‘real wine’ Les Caves de Pyrène do have an exciting stable of producers. It is always interesting tasting ‘real’ or ‘natural’ wines as they often challenge one’s prejudices. There does, however, come a point where a wine’s faults overcome its virtues and topples over the edge into the undrinkable.

-1-copie-6.jpg"Leave the wine to make itself..."

As is my wont I largely concentrated on the Loire and here with one notable exception the wines didn’t remotely cross the line to undrinkability – almost all were decidedly mainstream. There were the good 2008 Menetou-Salons from Domaine Pellé, the attractive Vouvray’s from Pierre and Catherine Breton – way better then their Bourgueils, which were easily eclipsed by a range from Domaine de la Chevalerie. Present also was Thierry Germain with his Saumur Blanc and range of Saumur-Champigny. I worry that Thierry in his pursuit of freshness and lower alcohol is flirting with picking too early. 

The best range of wines came from Frantz Saumon – both the Montlouis from his own vineyard and the new négociant business – Un Saumon dans La Loire, which includes a Menu Pineau and a Romorantin. Both showing the precision that is a mark of Frantz’s wines.

So the notable exception? The white Sancerres from Domaine Sébastien Riffault where the oxidation submerges both the grape variety and the terroir. It would be interesting to sit down and drink a glass or so of these wines but, despite what the label says, they are not Sancerre.

Riffault’s wines are, however, nothing like as bizarre as two 2005 wines (Equiss and Franc de Pied) from Julien Courtois that I tasted last week. Apparently ‘white’ they were the colour of dishwater – a greyish tinge of brown that would look truly appealing in your best Riedel glasses! Clearly this is a hue, which is difficult to achieve in a youngish wine as these two wines retail at £31.60 (36€) each.

Chapeau to Julien for managing to sell faulty wine at a decidedly high price!      

(c) Jim Budd 

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Iris 28/04/2010 18:37


I like you article and the commentary of Luc Charlier:-)...helps to clarify, that non claimed method or label is a guaranty for a quality end product, if it is not well employed...

I was just wondering, if the UK cellar, which organized the tasting had a very special sense of humour, when they invited on what is definitively a "faire part" for a burial?


Jim Budd 20/04/2010 22:55


Luc. Many thanks for your comment.

I agree it is a great pity that poorly made 'natural' wines give organic and biodynamic wines a bad name when many of France's leading producers are either bio or biodynamic.

I don't think the Pellés are biodynamic or bio as their website explains:

'Nous travaillons en culture raisonnée afin de respecter au maximum nos terroirs ( sol, environnement, faune auxiliaire).'

There are apparently no weedkillers used.


Luc Charlier 20/04/2010 14:31


Dear Jim,

I used to be a nephrologist - you know the guy who treats kidney patients with machines that look like those in a laundrette and use reverse osmosis to clean the water they consume– and an
infectious diseases specialist, in a previous and unhappy life. I have now (54 years of age) turned a grape-grower cum winemaker in the Agly Valley (French Roussillon). As such, I think the issue
of “real” wine needs ... clarification (humor!).

I will only challenge the last sentence of your contribution : it is an offence and a dishonesty to flog faulty wines at an extortionate price. But, then again, I’m an ex-trotskyist by inclination.
For the rest, how right you are!

I have known the Pellé family for ages, dating back to a time when I ran a little “groupage” club up there in Belgium with a few friends, “Les Amis du Vins”. They made wonderful Menetou-Salon’s –
the whites, that is. I did not know they had gone biodynamic in the meantime. And we could make a list of at least 100 wine estates which claim “biodynamic farming” and make wonderful wines
(Zind-Humbrecht, Ostertag, Gauby, Mark Angeli, Clemens Busch, Joguet are the first to come to my mind). We could increase this list to 1.000 for those going “organic only” (the French say “bio”):
Domaine Gardiés is probably the first I would think of. And then you have a few chappies coming up with “sulfur-free” wines that are outstanding: I think of the Barrail family (Faugères) and the
dazzling Thierry Allemand (Cornas). So, clearly, all these approaches do not necessarily lead to poor wines.

The problem lies elsewhere: some winemakers without any technical, scientific or agricultural - let alone “countryside” - back-ground claim those esoteric methods as either a kind of psychotherapy
for their own personality problems or as a marketing tool, wanting their wines to achieve “niche-status”, whereas they would otherwise just be junk.

I know I will not earn myself many friends with this small note – but I have written worse in my life . On the one hand, some wines are smashing, while being made along the biodynamic, organic or
“natural” pathways. The only difference then is that they will have taken the purity of our planet or the integrity of our immune system into account – certainly a feature of which I approve. On
the other hand, many many wines originating from those methods are just too poor to be drunk, and their label don’t do anything to the point. Cider is no wine, and Brettanomyces bruxellensis is
excellent for brewing “Gueuze”-beer, not for making “vin fin”.
Full stop.

Luc Charlier
Domaine de la Coume Majou